Northern exposure

Things are gradually re-opening in Israel with covid rates declining for weeks, so headed up to Mount Hermon for a last chance to see snow before it's gone, and really, we got there just in time.

The melt was already underway with just patches of snow left in shaded areas on the lower slopes and even riding the cable car to the top yielded fields of snow interspersed with bare rock. There was enough though for some sledding, snow ball fights and of course snowman building. Always a thrill to be above the clouds.



Driving back down we stopped a few times to enjoy the first post-melt spring wildflowers - oriental hyacinth, from which the popular cultivated plant was domesticated, round-leafed cyclamen, more delicate than the common cyclamen found elsehwere in Israel and vividly coloured tiny delicate grape hyacinth in cheery clusters along the mountainside. 

At one point a jackal, majestic in its luxurious winter pelt, darted across the road in front of us, clambering over a rocky outcrop before pausing to stand and stare at us, eye to eye, in the fading late afternoon light, the last rays of the sun illustrating why this is known as the golden jackal. 



The approach road passes through the Druze town of Majdal Shams and is lined with food stalls selling regional farm produce, especially the famous Druze pita bread, a popular local treat. A visit to the area is not complete without enjoying some of the excellent local fare.

We stopped at the "Pita Queen" run by a delightful older lady who is a font of culinary and health advice.

We enjoyed watching her whip up some fresh Druze pitas, which are nothing like pita bread that you might find in a bakery, rather they are thin and papery, almost like a crepe and must be eaten hot and fresh from the saj (metal domed griddle) on which they are made.

Traditionally served with a smear of labeneh, olive oil and zaatar, or just olive oil and zaatar, sometimes a little chili pepper.

She offered us tea, made the local way with cinnamon and cardamom, gratefully received on a blustery spring evening. We sat in the car enjoying the view, warming our hands on paper tea cups and chatting to the Queen herself as she pottered around telling us about her wares. 



In the back of her small kitchen she had a pot bubbling away with a warming dessert of hot sahlab/sahlev, somewhere between a thick starchy-milky drink and a pudding seasoned with rosewater, maybe cinnamon, sometimes vanilla too, and topped with more cinnamon, shredded coconut and/or crushed pistachios and/or crushed peanuts.

It was introduced to the Levant during the period of Turkish Ottoman rule and today is a popular winter treat in countries like Israel, Lebanon and Syria. Authentic Turkish, Greek and Iranian salep is made from orchid roots but in Levant countries it is usually milk based with corn or other starch rather than orchid roots. Perfect to warm you up on a chilly day.

Piled up in front of her stall was assorted farm produce made by her family: wildflower honey, balls of labeneh in olive oil and lemon cured olives.

In season there are delicious apples from the orchards now in blossom, but this time of year she was selling Coke bottles full of cider vinegar from last season's crop (drink every morning for good health, fertility and weight loss), as well as homemade olive oil (drink every morning for longevity and good health). This is her daily regimen for getting in shape for the summer, when God Willing, her son is getting married.